Getting the right carbon brushes for your Makita tool comes down to one thing: matching them to your exact tool by model.
The wrong ones wear unevenly, spark, or won't sit properly in the holder. The right ones get your tool working again, and they usually cost only a few pounds.
This guide covers how to tell whether your tool needs new carbon brushes, how to find the exact ones that fit it, and how to fit them once they arrive.
The process is the same either way, tracking down a fault or just replacing a worn pair.
If you want to shortcut the process, contact Top Deals Online today and we'll tell you the best carbon brush for your Makita tool make/model free of charge - call 020 3151 3456 (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm).
What carbon brushes are and what they do in a Makita tool
Carbon brushes are small blocks of carbon-graphite that carry electrical current into the spinning part of your tool's motor. Two of them sit on opposite sides of the commutator (the ring of copper segments on the motor shaft), each held against it by a small spring inside a brush holder.
As the motor runs, the carbon brushes stay still while the commutator spins under them, so the carbon is constantly rubbing against copper. That contact is what powers the tool, and it's also what wears the brushes down. Carbon is softer than copper on purpose, so the brushes wear away over time instead of scoring the commutator.
That's why carbon brushes are one of the most common spare parts a power tool needs. On a brushed Makita motor they're the part most likely to wear out first, and replacing them is usually a simple job.
Does your Makita tool have carbon brushes? Brushed vs brushless motors
Your Makita tool has carbon brushes if it runs a brushed motor. If it runs a brushless motor, there are no carbon brushes to replace.
The difference is in how the motor delivers power. A brushed motor uses carbon brushes and a commutator to pass current to the armature, the wound part that spins. A brushless motor does the same job electronically, with no brushes and no commutator, so there's nothing there to wear.
To tell which one you have, check the tool and its box for the word "brushless." Makita usually prints it on the body of the tool and lists it in the model's specification.
Corded tools are almost always brushed. Cordless tools go either way: a lot of the newer ones are brushless, but plenty of older cordless models still take carbon brushes, so it's worth checking rather than assuming. If you're not sure, find your model number and check whether its specification lists it as brushless.
If your tool is brushless and it's lost power or stopped, the fault is something other than the carbon brushes, so brushes aren't the spare part you need.
Signs your Makita tool needs new carbon brushes
Worn carbon brushes show a handful of clear signs, and they usually turn up together as the brushes reach the end of their life.
- The clearest sign is heavy or constant sparking. A small amount of sparking at the motor is normal on a brushed tool, but bright, continuous arcing you can see through the vents usually means the carbon brushes are worn, sticking in the holder, or making poor contact.
- A drop in power is just as common. The tool feels weaker than usual, bogs down under load, or takes longer to reach full speed.
- The tool may also cut out or run in fits and starts. As a worn brush loses steady contact with the commutator, the tool stutters, stops and starts, or stalls partway through a job.
- On a tool with an electric brake, such as many angle grinders, the brake can grow weaker or less consistent. The brake works through the motor, so as the brushes wear and their contact drops off, the disc takes longer to stop after you let go of the trigger.
- You might notice a burning smell or a hotter motor than usual. Worn brushes and a dirtied commutator arc more, and that extra arcing heats the motor and can give off a sharp electrical smell.
- The sound can change too. A brush worn close to its limit, or a spring that's no longer pushing it firmly against the commutator, can leave the motor grinding or screeching.
- Some Makita tools simply stop. On carbon brushes that have an auto cut-off, the tool cuts out cleanly when the brushes reach their wear limit rather than sparking on, and that's a sign they need replacing.
Any one of these on its own doesn't always point to the brushes. A worn trigger switch, a damaged lead on a corded tool, or a tired battery on a cordless one can cause the same power loss or cutting out, so it's worth ruling those out too.
But when two or three of these signs turn up together on a tool that's had a fair amount of use, worn carbon brushes are the first thing to check. If you can reach them easily, pull one out and look: if the carbon is worn down close to the spring or its wear line, it's time for a new pair.
Sparking on its own can have causes beyond worn brushes, from a dirty commutator to a fault elsewhere in the tool, so if that's the main thing you're seeing, our guide on why a power tool sparks and how to stop it is worth a read before you order anything.
How to find the right carbon brushes for your Makita tool
Finding the right carbon brushes comes down to matching them to your specific tool, not just to the type of tool. Two angle grinders that look much the same can take different brushes, so "a grinder brush" is never specific enough. What you match to is the exact model in front of you.
Two numbers are involved, and they're easy to mix up. Your tool's model number identifies the tool. The carbon brush's own part number, usually a CB number, identifies the brush. You use the first to find the second: look up your model number, find the CB number that fits it, then confirm that against the code or the size of your old brushes. Order them as a matched pair, since both sides wear together and both need replacing.
Once you have your model number, you can search our site by it directly, because we've listed our carbon brushes by the tools they fit rather than leaving you to guess at sizes. If you can't find the model number, the code on the old brushes or a Makita parts diagram gets you to the same place.
Find your Makita model number
Your model number is printed on the tool's rating plate, the small silver or metal label on the body of the tool. Look on the motor housing, around the base of the handle, or near where the cable enters on a corded tool. It's also on the original box and in the manual.
The number is a short code of letters and numbers, for example something like GA9020 or DHP482. Write it down exactly, including any letters on the end, because different versions of the same tool can take different carbon brushes.
If the label has worn off, which happens on a well-used tool, the code on the old brushes or a parts diagram will get you to the right carbon brushes instead.
Look up the carbon brush part number (the CB number)
Every Makita carbon brush has its own part number, and for carbon brushes that number usually begins with the letters "CB." It identifies one specific size and grade of brush. The same brush often carries a longer Makita part number as well, and you'll see both on a parts list. Either number points to the same brush; the CB number is just the one most people quote.
The useful thing about the CB number is that a single one covers a lot of different tools. Makita uses the same carbon brush across many models, so once you know the CB number your tool takes, you can match a replacement with confidence, even if your exact model isn't listed.
You'll find the CB number in a few places: printed or stamped on the old brushes themselves, in the tool's parts list or manual, and on a Makita parts diagram. Once you have it, you can search by that number directly.
The CB number is only one of the markings you'll find on a brush, and if you want to know what the rest of them mean, we break them down in our post on what the numbers on carbon brushes mean.
Check the code and measurements on your old brushes
Your old carbon brushes are one of the best guides to what you need, because the answer is often printed on them. With the tool unplugged or its battery removed, take it apart far enough to slide one carbon brush out, and look for a code stamped into the carbon or on the small metal terminal. That's usually the CB number.
If there's no readable code, or the tool is old enough that you can't track down a model or CB number at all, you can work straight from the brush's size. Carbon brushes are measured in three dimensions: width, thickness and length, in millimetres, and you need to match all three. Two brushes can share two of those measurements and differ on the third, and that difference alone is enough to stop one fitting or seating properly.
Measure the carbon block itself, not the spring or the wire, ideally with a caliper, since a millimetre either way matters at this size. Note the shape of the end, whether it's flat or curved to sit against the commutator, and how the brush connects, whether by a wire lead, a spade terminal or a spring clip. Those details, with your measurements, identify the right carbon brushes even when nothing on the tool gives you a number.
Bear in mind that a worn brush reads shorter than its original length. If you can, measure a dimension that hasn't worn, or check the figure against the specification for your model, so the length you note isn't the worn one.
When you're matching on size like this rather than a number, our range of generic carbon brushes is listed by dimension instead of by tool, which makes it a good place to find one that measures up, and a brush that comes up a touch oversize can usually be filed down to fit.
Use a Makita parts diagram
A Makita parts diagram is an exploded drawing of your tool that lists every part by number, including the carbon brushes. It's a dependable way to find the exact carbon brush your model uses.
To use one, find the diagram for your exact model number, then locate the carbon brushes in the drawing. They sit near the motor, next to the commutator and the brush holders, and the number listed against them is the one you search for.
Parts diagrams are handy when the label on your tool has worn off or the old brushes have no readable code, because they tie the part straight to your model number. If you can't find the diagram, or you're not sure you're reading it right, your model number on its own is enough to search by.
Genuine Makita carbon brushes vs compatible ones
There are two kinds of replacement carbon brushes for a Makita tool: Genuine Makita carbon brushes, which are the ones Makita makes and sells for its own tools, and compatible carbon brushes, which are made to fit the same tools without being the brand's own part.
Both do the same job, and a correctly made compatible carbon brush is the right part for your tool whatever the tool cost. What separates a good compatible carbon brush from a bad one isn't the badge, it's whether it was specified and made correctly for the tool: the right carbon grade for its voltage and wattage, the right size and fit, down to the spring and the terminal.
That's exactly what we do. We choose the carbon grade for the tool it's going into, carbon graphite, copper graphite or silver graphite depending on the motor, cut it to the brush holder's size, grind the contact face, and measure it to our own tolerance, no more than a tenth of a millimetre under size and never over. Then we embed the wire and weld the terminal. We make these to our own specification through trusted global partners. We've been doing exactly this on eBay since 2012, with more than 268,000 spare parts sold and 100% positive feedback.
If you'd rather have the manufacturer's own part, we stock Genuine Makita carbon brushes too, clearly marked as Genuine, so the choice is on the page rather than a gamble. Either way, the right brush is the one matched to your exact tool.
If you're curious how a carbon brush is actually put together, from choosing the grade to welding the terminal, we walk through the whole process in our post on how carbon brushes are made.
Carbon brushes with an auto cut-off vs standard
Some carbon brushes have an auto cut-off, a feature built to shut the motor off when the carbon wears to its limit. A standard carbon brush doesn't do that: it runs until the carbon wears down and loses contact with the commutator, and the tool slows or stops.
A carbon brush with an auto cut-off has a small insulating tip set into the carbon. Once the brush wears down to that tip, the tip meets the commutator and breaks the contact. The circuit opens, the tool stops, and it won't run again until you fit new carbon brushes.
The reason for the design is protection. A standard brush left to wear right down can keep arcing against the commutator and score the copper, which is a far more expensive repair than a set of carbon brushes. An auto cut-off stops the tool before it reaches that point.
This matters when you're choosing a replacement, because the two aren't interchangeable. Most of the carbon brushes we supply have an auto cut-off, but not every carbon brush does, so check whether the ones you're fitting have the feature rather than assume the tool is protected. If your tool came with carbon brushes that have an auto cut-off, fit the same; if it came with standard ones, fit standard. Your model number and the code on the old brushes will tell you which type your tool takes.
Common Makita carbon brush part numbers and sizes
Makita groups its carbon brushes under CB part numbers, and a small number of those numbers cover a large share of its tools. Because the same carbon brush fits many different models, knowing your tool's CB number is often all you need to find a replacement, whatever the tool.
Sizes go hand in hand with the numbers. Each carbon brush is described by three measurements, its width, thickness and length in millimetres, and the CB number is tied to one specific size and carbon grade. That's why two tools with the same CB number take exactly the same brush, and why a brush from a different number, even one that looks similar, may not fit or seat correctly.
It's tempting to match your tool against a printed list of which number fits what, but that's the one place a small mistake gets expensive: a number that's close but not correct means a brush that won't fit, or one that damages the motor.
So get the number that belongs to your exact tool. Read it off your old brushes, take it from your tool's own parts list, or search your model on our site. That's surer than any generic chart, and it sidesteps the near-misses a rough measurement can lead to.
How much do Makita carbon brushes cost?
Carbon brushes are among the cheapest spare parts you can buy for a power tool, usually only a few pounds for a pair. That's a small fraction of what a replacement tool would cost, which is why a worn pair is almost always worth replacing rather than buying a new tool.
The exact price depends on the size and grade of brush your tool takes, and on whether you go for Genuine Makita carbon brushes or a compatible set. Genuine Makita carbon brushes usually cost a little more; a compatible set costs less and is still the right part for the tool. To see the price for your tool, search by your model number and you'll get the carbon brushes that fit it, with the price for that set.
How to replace the carbon brushes once you have the right ones
Replacing carbon brushes is usually a straightforward job, and on many Makita tools you can reach them from the outside without opening the whole motor housing. Work slowly, and if anything feels beyond you, there's no harm in stopping and handing the tool to a repair shop.
- Disconnect the power. Unplug a corded tool, or take the battery off a cordless one. Don't skip this step.
- Get to the brushes. On a lot of tools they sit under two plastic brush caps, one on each side of the motor housing, that unscrew with a flat screwdriver. On others you'll need to remove a few screws and open the housing to reach the brush holders.
- Take out the old carbon brushes. Note how each one sits before it comes out, the way the curved end faces the commutator and how the spring and wire are routed, so you can fit the new ones the same way. Release the terminal or lift the spring clip, then slide the brush out.
- Fit the new carbon brushes the same way round. Check that each brush slides freely in its holder, that the spring sits behind it and presses it against the commutator, and that the terminal is reconnected properly. A brush that sticks or goes in the wrong way round won't make good contact.
- Refit the caps or close the housing, then reconnect the power. Run the tool with no load for a minute or two so the new brushes bed in, which means their ends wear to match the curve of the commutator. A little sparking as they settle is normal, and it should ease as they seat.
If a new brush sits a shade too long in the holder, or you want a bit more on bedding a fresh set in, we cover both in our post on whether to bed in or cut carbon brushes to size.
If your tool uses carbon brushes with an auto cut-off and it wouldn't run before, fitting a fresh set should bring it back, because the old ones had reached their cut-off point.
How long do Makita carbon brushes last?
There's no fixed number, because how long carbon brushes last depends on how hard and how often the tool is used. The same drill might wear a set out quickly under daily, heavy work, or make them last a long time on the odd job at home.
A few things drive it:
- Heavy, sustained work under load wears brushes faster than light, occasional use.
- The grade of carbon matters, since some are formulated to last longer at high RPM.
- So does the state of the commutator, because a rough or dirty one grinds through brushes quicker.
- And running a tool that's already arcing badly on worn brushes will wear the fresh set faster too, if you don't clean the commutator up first.
Rather than count hours or years, go by how the tool behaves. You'll recognise worn carbon brushes from the same symptoms: sparking, power loss and cutting out. When you spot those, check the carbon brushes. Many tools also let you pull the brushes out to look without much fuss, and on one you use hard it's worth checking them now and then rather than waiting for a fault. If the carbon is worn down close to the spring or its wear line, they're due for replacement.
If you use your tool daily for heavy work, expect to replace carbon brushes more often than someone doing occasional jobs around the house. Keeping the tool clean and not running it hot helps the brushes last as long as possible. On the tools you rely on most, it's worth keeping a spare pair of carbon brushes on hand, so a worn set means a quick change rather than a stopped job and a wait for parts.
Looking after the tool as a whole helps them last, too, and there are a few simple habits worth picking up in our guide to maintaining your power tools.
Frequently asked questions
A few more questions that come up when you're matching carbon brushes to a Makita tool.
Should you replace both carbon brushes at the same time?
Yes, always replace both carbon brushes as a pair, even if only one looks worn. The two wear at a similar rate, so if one is finished the other is close behind. Fitting a new brush against a worn one gives you uneven contact, more sparking, and another repair due soon after. Carbon brushes are sold and priced as pairs for this reason, and doing both at once costs very little more.
What happens if you fit the wrong carbon brushes?
The wrong carbon brushes cause problems that range from annoying to expensive. If the brush is the wrong size, it either won't fit in the holder or it sits too loose, which means poor contact, heavy sparking and rapid wear. If the carbon grade is wrong for the tool's speed, the brush can wear quickly or arc more than it should.
Left to run, that extra arcing can score the commutator, and repairing or replacing a commutator costs far more than getting the right carbon brushes in the first place. That's why matching by model number or CB number matters: it keeps you from fitting a brush that's close but not correct.
Can worn carbon brushes damage your Makita tool?
Yes, worn carbon brushes can damage your tool if you keep using them. As a brush wears down, its contact with the commutator gets worse and it arcs more. That arcing scores and pits the copper segments of the commutator, and a badly scored commutator can mean a new armature, which is a far bigger job than a set of carbon brushes. Worn brushes can also let the spring or the brush wire touch the commutator, which does its own damage. This is exactly what an auto cut-off is built to prevent, and it's why it's worth replacing standard brushes promptly once they show the signs.
Do the same carbon brushes fit different Makita tools?
Often, yes. Makita uses the same carbon brush across a lot of different tools, so a single CB number can cover a whole range of models, from drills to grinders to saws. That's what makes the CB number so useful: find the number your tool uses, and you can match a replacement even when your exact model isn't named on the listing.
But it doesn't work in reverse. You can't assume a brush fits just because both tools are Makita, since the range includes several different brush sizes and grades. The safe approach is the same one throughout: match by your model number or the CB number, not by the brand alone.
Whatever Makita tool you're fixing, the reliable way to get the right carbon brushes is to match them to it by model. We've matched every one of our carbon brushes against the specific Makita models it fits, so you can search our range of Makita carbon brushes by your model number and find a set that's proven to work on your tool.
If you can't see your model, or you're not sure which set you need, tell us your model and we'll help you find the right one. That help shows up again and again in our reviews, where 96% of more than a thousand are five-star. One customer who ordered the wrong carbon brushes for his Makita and rang us for advice wrote that Harry was "so knowledgeable and helpful," and got his tool running again once the right ones arrived.